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This simple guide offers advice on how to plan for a room-painting project. You can read the entire text from top to bottom, or use the links below to jump down through the page.
Sequence for painting a room is from top to bottom:
Ceiling first, then walls, then windows, doors and finally skirting boards.
Great interior painting is as easy as one-two-three
There are many reasons why interior painting is one of the most popular home improvement activities.
Painting can quickly and dramatically transform the appearance of a room, an apartment or an entire home; it's personally rewarding; it's inexpensive; and it's fun.
Moreover, interior painting is easy. According to the Rohm and Haas Paint Quality Institute, even inexperienced people can often get professional painting results by following just three simple rules
Rule number one: Prepare the surface properly
Good paint performance depends on good paint adhesion, and paint adheres best to surfaces that are clean and sound. Before picking up a brush or roller, it's important to make sure the surface is "inviting" to the paint.
Accumulated dirt, dust and grime should be removed from walls, ceilings and trim with a detergent-water solution. After washing, the surfaces should be thoroughly rinsed with water and allowed to dry completely.
Next, a putty knife should be used to fill cracks, holes and other surface imperfections with either spackling compound or a quality acrylic sealant. If spackling is used, after it is dry it should be sanded smooth and flush with the surface; sealant should be smoothed and feathered as it is applied.
Finally, if walls or ceilings have water stains or other serious discolouration, then before painting, it may be necessary to coat them with an acrylic or oil-based stain-blocking primer to prevent the stains from bleeding through the new paint. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the most appropriate sealer or primer.
Rule number two: Use only top quality paint
Compared with ordinary interior paints, top quality finishes are much easier to work with and offer superior long-term performance.
In terms of application benefits, top quality paints won't spatter or tend to show brush marks. And since they hide better than ordinary paints, a single coat may be sufficient to give a great looking paint job and save on time, labour and cost.
Top quality interior paints also are tougher and more durable than ordinary interior paints, according to experts at the Paint Quality Institute. They resist fading, yellowing and staining. And even if they do get spotted or stained, discolouration can often be washed off without damaging the finish.
Rule number three: Invest in quality tools
To get the most from top quality interior paint, it should be applied with high quality brushes and rollers. Not only will they apply the paint more evenly, but they will also make the job more effortless
The best brushes tend to be well balanced, hold a lot of paint and apply the paint evenly. Look for brushes with tightly packed bristles and test them for springiness. And be sure they don't fan too much.
When applying the more popular acrylic or water-based interior paints, it's suitable to use brushes and rollers with synthetic bristles and covers. They'll maintain the proper stiffness and keep their shape regardless of the amount of water they're exposed to.
Most oil-based or alkyd paints can be applied with brushes and rollers made either of synthetic or natural materials.
Remember. interior painting can be as simple as one-two-three. But there are no shortcuts. Good surface preparation, top quality paint and high quality tools are all essential to get the best results.
First ‘cut in’ a 50mm wide strip with a brush around the edges of the ceiling. Switch to a roller (usually medium or long nap for flat paints) with a 1 - 1.5m extension pole.. Starting at a corner and working toward the light paint a section about 1 square metre. Use a zigzag pattern, paint a W" pattern on the ceiling, which will disperse the paint on the roller evenly. Fill in this sq m section without reloading the roller until you have complete coverage of this section. Continue to cover the ceiling, working across its shortest dimension in square metre sections (rather than working along the length of the room), overlapping while paint is wet to minimise lap marks.
Starting at the ceiling, ‘cut in’ 50mm strip with a brush. Continue with the brush to cut in 50mm strips in corners, around windows, doors, cabinets and baseboards. Note - there are tools available at your paint retail outlets that help make this "edging" job easier. Other "tricks" include sliding the roller cover off the holder slightly so the rollers edge gets closer to ceiling, window or door.
Switch to a roller and paint in a vertical direction using a zigzag pattern. Push the roller upward on the first stroke, then form an "M" pattern to evenly distribute the paint from the roller. (working in 1 sq metre sections is recommended). Fill in the "M" pattern without reloading the roller until you have complete coverage of the area. Finish each section by running the roller in upward vertical strokes to make the roller stipple (surface texture) uniform. Continue with this approach until the wall is finished. Touching up spots you missed as you go while the paint is wet will help minimise sheen potential sheen differences.
Most manufacturers recommend that when you finish one wall, make sure you have enough paint to complete the next entire wall. Starting with another can of paint in the middle of a wall can result in slightly different colours, which will be perceptible side by side, but not wall to wall.
Open door wide to reach all parts to be covered. Protect hinges and other metal with masking tape. Always start at the top. If the door is panelled, paint the panels first, the horizontal sections next and finally the vertical sections. If the door opens into the room you are painting, use the same colour on the latch edge that you have used for the rest of the door. If it opens into the next room, do not paint the hinged edge. It should be the same colour as the other room
Due to the growing popularity of decks, there are now a wide variety of Deck finishes - ranging from conventional penetrating ones to new water based acrylic ones. In the alkyd category, there are clears, semi transparent and opaque finishes. In acrylic, semi transparent and opaque.
Many homeowners are starting to use the semi transparent or opaque to maximise the protection and duration of their deck coating.
Begin by cleaning or power washing to remove dirt, mildew and old coatings. If you are using a clear, penetrating coating, deck brightening products help restore a "new wood" look to the wood. Both sides of the railings should also be power washed.
Brushes and Rollers - Once the deck is clean and thoroughly dry, start with a brush on the outside of the deck, on tops of the railing and work your way down to the deck, then in toward the house. Then switch to a roller for the deck, starting at an outside edge and working toward the house. Use even pressure on the roller on each board to give uniform coverage and sheen.
Spraying is another way to coat decks - faster than brush/roller, but you must be sure to protect shrubs etc. from overspray. Spray equipment can be rented at many paint stores, home centres or rental companies. Check with a paint professional for tip size and pressure setting - which will depend on the type of coating you use. Spray railings first, unless the railings are to be a different colour than the deck. Then the deck should be coated first. One tip for protecting plants or other objects from overspray is to tape kraft paper to the outside of the railing, which will catch the overspray. When spraying the deck itself, spray evenly over a two square metre area, then go over that area with a 25mm nap roller to spread coating evenly into deck. Continue this procedure in sections until deck is covered. Be sure to use a large shield (such as 1.5m square piece of cardboard) when painting alongside the house to protect it from overspray.
Of all the woodwork in the home, window frames suffer the most stress. Constant exposure to temperature changes and condensation means that windows often need to be painted more frequently than doors, moldings and trim.
Unfortunately, the process involved in painting windows can be confusing. To simplify things, the Rohm and Haas Paint Quality Institute offers some window painting guidelines that can save you time, money and aggravation.
Start by gathering the right tools for window painting:
- a 35mm or 50mm quality brush (use synthetic bristles if you are painting with one of the popular acrylic interior paints);
- a cutting-in brush for precision work;
- a paint shield or masking tape;
- a screwdriver;
- enough top quality paint to complete the job.
Remove locks, curtain hooks and other hardware from the windows. This will speed your work and produce a better-looking paint job.
Double-hung windows
For double-hung windows, follow this six-step procedure:
1. Raise the bottom sash and lower the top sash most of the way, so that there is a 150mm overlap. Paint the bottom horizontal section of the top sash, then the accessible vertical members. Use care to keep paint from getting in between sash and frame which can "glue" the window in place.
2. Nearly close the upper and lower sashes, then finish painting the rest of the top sash.
3. Paint the entire bottom sash.
4. After allowing the sashes to dry, paint the window frame.
5. Close the windows and paint the exposed parts of the runners. If your windows have sash cords, avoid getting paint on them.
6. Paint the window sill and apron.
Casement windows
If your home has any casement windows (windows that open out or in, rather than up or down), use a different technique:
1. Open the windows and paint the top, side and bottom edges.
2. Paint the crossbars and frame casings.
3. Complete the job by painting the sill and apron.
Regardless of the type of windows you are painting, if you have a steady hand, you can keep paint on the frame and off the glass by using the cutting-in brush. But be sure to overlap the paint onto the glass slightly to help seal off moisture.
There are two other techniques for keeping paint off of the window panes: holding up a paint shield as you work or applying masking tape to the glass.
When using tape, press it firmly to the glass to keep excess paint from creeping beneath it. (If stray specks of paint get onto the glass, simply remove them with a scraper.) Remove the tape before the paint dries to a hard film.
Some final tips:
Before starting to paint, repair any damage to the window and properly prepare the surface. This can be done by scraping off old paint, then sanding, and priming any spots where bare wood shows. (Get more advice on surface preparation at your local paint retailer, hardware store or decorating center.)
Paint windows early in the day so that they have enough time to dry before you close them in the evening.
Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain.